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Where to live in Barcelona
Here's a run-down on the best barrios (neighbourhoods) in the city and surrounds.
Ciutat Vella
The oldest part of Barcelona, Ciutat Vella is also the most lively and without a doubt the most touristy. The neighbourhood is a relatively small area sandwiched between the larger Eixample (Extension, see below) and the Mediterranean Sea.
Home to artisan workshops, unique shops, countless architectural treasures, and some of the city's best museums, it's easy to see why many expats are attracted to this dynamic barrio.
The Ciutat Vella is a unique place to live, but it has problems too. Street noise may be a bother, and getting a car through the narrow (if picturesque) streets is a nightmare. The abundance of awed tourists means that crime is higher here than in other areas of Barcelona, and you'll have to watch your wallet.
It may not be the most practical place for long-term living or for families as buildings tend to be tall, narrow and without lifts and the streets old, dark and impossible to get a car through (let alone park). But the area is full of atmosphere and great for young couples and single professionals.
The Ciutat Vella is actually divided into three areas: El Borne, to the north; Barri Gótic, the central Gothic Quarter; and El Raval, to the south. Through the centre runs La Rambla, Barcelona's emblematic pedestrian boulevard, a hotbed of activity, ideas and people day and night.
El Barrio Gotico
El Barri Gótic is the original centre of Barcelona, or Barcelo as it was called by the Romans who began building here.
Getting lost in its hundreds of twisting, medieval, cobble-stone alleys and buildings during the day is a must, while the numerous bars and clubs make it an excellent area to experience Barcelona's vibrant nightlife.
A home in this area, among ancient, romantic streets and musicians who play guitars in small stone plazas, is a home like no other. Over the past decade, the Barri Gótic has become increasingly en vogue, and prices can be high.
El Borne
Situated below Eixample and on the other side of Via Laietana, this area used to be as seedy as El Raval although it is now a particularly sought-after place to live at present, with its narrow streets of bars, restaurants and boutiques converging on the beautiful Santa Maria del Mar basilica.
Traditionally the heart of the textile industry, it has reclaimed its roots and is the epicentre for Catalan clothing design. Crowned by the noble Santa Maria del Mar basilica, this is an enchanting neighbourhood that, while increasingly popular with tourists, is still a place where neighbours stop and chat in the street.
The neighbourhood itself is full of hidden squares and cool little nooks and crannies with a happening nightlife for the posher crowd, but along with it comes the constant street buzz drunks stumbling home, and some petty crime.
El Raval
Until recent years, El Raval was a marginalised neighbourhood known for crime and prostitution. It's now one of the most creative areas of the city and draws young artists, musicians and designers. It's the Barcelona's most diverse area, with a high immigrant population. Living here is an adventure and a lesson in diversity. It's possible to find incredible flats, but they may be in need of repair.
Barceloneta
Seaside Barceloneta has an undeniably great location but has awfully cramped apartments that can be as small as 35 square metres. Stylish apartments which line the promenade are newer and cost much more. A street away, you can see fishermen's cottages and is a remnant of the area's fishing village days.
L'Exiample
Above El Barrio Gotico to the right is Plaza Urquinaona and the start of the Eixample Dreta (right) district. Here you'll find high-end shopping, some of the best-value housing and not least, the vast majority of the city's modernist treasures. Architecture by revered Catalan sons Antoni Gaudí, Josep Puig i Cadafalch and Lluís Doménech i Montaner, among others, dot the tree-lined boulevards of Barcelona's largest district.
L'Exiample is actually divided into two parts, L'Eixample Esquerra (left extension), which stretches south of the major thoroughfare Passeig de Gràcia, and L'Eixample Dreta (right extension), which stretches to the north. Prices tend to be higher in the L'Eixample Dreta.
Both have a mixture of high-end and more modest housing, with loads of shops, restaurants, schools and other services filling the first and second floors of early 20th-century buildings dedicated to housing or office space.
Radiating out from the intersection of Carrer Aragó and Carrer Consell de Cent in L'Eixample Esquerra is Barcelona's major gay neighbourhood, commonly referred to as "Gay-xample."
L'Eixample is a convenient neighbourhood where both families and young professionals will feel comfortable. A mostly residential neighborhood that's surprisingly quiet at night, the apartments tend to be airy and spacious with elevators, and lots of natural light.
Gràcia
Long the haunt of artists and free-thinkers, Gràcia feels like a whole different town within the hustle and bustle of Barcelona. In fact, it once was an independent village, with the narrow streets and small plazas to prove it, but Barcelona swallowed it up in 1897.
These days, it's home to countless sidewalk cafés and bench-lined plazas. Some of the city's best tapas restaurants and low-key nightspots are here, as are alternative theatres and quirky shops. The downside is that it can get unbearably noisy in summer because of noisy bars and thin walls.
Housing ranges from large sunny flats to cramped spaces that have been carved out of one-time private homes. Prices have rocketed in the past years.
Public transportation isn't as abundant as in other areas, but a metro line runs through the heart of the neighbourhood.
For those facing a long driving commute or carting kids here and there, Gràcia isn't the most convenient place to live, though its charm is unmatched by other barrios.
Sarrià and the Zona Alta (High Zone)
Recognised as Barcelona's most privileged address, Sarrià and the larger area Zona Alta are home to posh mansions, elegant apartment blocks and the best international schools. You'll need your own transport to get around comfortably, but the neighbourhood offers a tranquil, residential feel impossible to find in other parts of the city.
All housing here is expensive, but it's also newer and generally in better condition than many of the apartments on offer in more historic parts of Barcelona.
Like Gràcia, Sarrià was once an independent town, and its old central square is still the heart of the neighbourhood. For many people, a big plus of the Zona Alta is that it's close to the Ronda, the belt-like highway that circles Barcelona.
Horta-Guinardó
Horta-Guinardó is the third largest district in the city after Sants-Montjuïc and Sarrià-Sant Gervasi, and is known for the steepness of its streets, which is due to the hilly landscape in this area of Barcelona. Surrounded by the hills of Collserola, Vall d'Hebron and Riera d'Horta, this area is perhaps more suited for families. The lack of public transport links and entertainment options means that young people tend not to want to live here.
Sant Andreu
Located on a large area of north Barcelona, Sant Andreu consists of mainly apartment blocks that were built in the 1970s, although there are some small, sought-after houses located in central Sant Andreu. There are ample amenities and services for local residents but fall short of a vibrant nightlife that young professional enjoy.
San Cugat
An ideal place for families, San Cugat is a Barcelona suburb that's well connected to the city centre by the ferrocarril (regional train). The pace here is a good deal slower than that of the city, and while property prices are still high, it's possible to find a larger townhouse or even a small one-family home, something that can be difficult in Barcelona proper.
Forests of the Collserola mountain ridge make for great strolling, and the large park on the grounds of a Romanesque monastery is a good place to play with the kids. San Cugat's small downtown has all the services you need, including an international school.
Sitges
Just a half-hour south of Barcelona, Sitges is a popular coastal resort for those who need to be close to the city but love the relaxed atmosphere and bohemian air of beachy Sitges. The train connects the town to central Barcelona in less than half an hour, making it an easy home base for commuters.
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